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The floor of the teardrop I purchased was made of a pressure treated 2x4 frame covered with 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood. It wasn't done well with horribly mitered corners on the 2x4s and cross members pieced out of scrap lumber. I was able to save the plywood and will attempt to re-use it but the 2x4s cannot be used. Floor build was started on 6/11/2005

I will be framing the floor with 2x4s, a couple ripped in half, and have laid out the frame members on the chassis. The 2x4s are overkill according to the plans I've purchased and everything I read on the Teardrop Forum. Since I plan to add underfloor storage areas the 2x4s are handy as they are wide enough to clear the chassis members and will make a great attaching point for the plywood underfloor boxes. Teardrop - Laying out the frame members
The Kuffel Creek plans I purchased say to use simple butt joints on the frame and while this would probably work I went ahead and made half-lap joints all around. I used Gorilla Glue and screws to hold the members together. The long frame members are also notched to accept the cross members. Teardrop - The outer frame is done
The cross members are each cut to fit and glued with Gorilla Glue. I'll be adding screws through the corners in "toe nail" fashion. I bought three 10 foot pipes and six pipe clamps when I started working on the tear. I cut the first pipe exactly in half and added the clamps you see. It turns out that these clamps will not be long enough to clamp the tear once I add the walls. For the remaining two pipes I'll cut them into different lengths, 5'6" and 4'6". This will give me two clamps long enough to clamp the full width of the tear (which is 57 inches). (6/11/2005) Teardrop - Gluing the cross members
Finished gluing the crossmembers in place and sanding the excess glue. Just a few more things to do before I start building the six underfloor boxes. Teardrop - Cross members are glued and sanded
At the end of a day working outside on the teardrop my dining room table tends to look like this. Sometimes I even get most of these tools put away before the next time I use them. Can you tell that I'm single? (6/13/2005) Teardrop - Tools galore on my dining room table
My plan to get the floor flat is to strongly attach the 2x4 frame to the chassis. I'm laying out the holes I need to drill here. Teardrop - Laying out the bolt holes in the floor frame.
The frame will be attached using 1/4-20 flat head bolts countersunk into the wood and going into tapped holes in the chassis. I should be able to pull it very flat this way. I bought a new drill/tap set for the 22 holes. (6/15/2005) Teardrop - The bolts I'll use along with drill and tap.
The first underfloor storage box is started. Woo Hoo! I've routed a rabbit along the bottom of the pieces to receive the box floor. Note my wimpy electric brad nailer that I picked up on eBay--it won't drive a one inch brad through two pieces of plywood (sigh). (6/17/2005) Teardrop - The first underfloor box is started.
Here is how I'm leaving the teardrop as I head to Minden, NE for the First International Teardrop Gathering. Three boxes down, three to go. (6/21/2005) Teardrop - Three underfloor boxes done, three to go.
The last of the six underfloor storage boxes is done and mounted sticking up slightly above the frame. All the boxes were mounted this way then sanded flush with a belt sander. I've also installed the first small piece of new 1/2" plywood floor at the rear of the trailer. (7/1/2005) Teardrop - All six underfloor storage boxes done.
The 3/4" treated plywood that was the floor is very wavy and its edges are separating. I've tried to straighten it out and reglue the plys. I wet the edge of the plywood and put a thick helping of Gorilla Glue on it. Covered with plastic wrap and clamped between these 2x4s, I hoped it would fix up the edge. The edges came out alright but the wood is still too warped to use. (6/14/2005) Teardrop - Trying to straighten the plywood edge
The plywood floor has been cut and the doors for three of the underfloor storage areas cut with the other three layed out. The 1/2" plywood should lay completely flat once glued and screwed to the 2x4 frame. Still lots of sanding to be done to the openings and the doors before I glue the floor down. (7/4/2005) Teardrop - Three doors cut.
Anything to slow me down--I just purchased this, my second teardrop on 7/13/2005. It is a 1948 home-built 4x8 model and here is it's build page. Spent the next two days cleaning it out, installing temporary wiring, adding safety chains, and repacking the bearings. It is a wacky little tear that will need completely torn down and rebuilt from the chassis up (deja vu). I'm going to attempt to not neglect one tear for the other and work them both simultaneously. Teardrop - 1948 Homebuilt Teardrop.
Woo Hoo, the plywood floor is in place. I attached the plywood to the 2x4 frame using Titebond II wood glue and plenty of exterior deck screws. Teardrop - The floor with plywood attached.
Here is the floor with all six doors sitting in place. It looks like I'll be gluing and screwing another piece of 1/2 plywood to the bottom of these doors in the hope of getting them to lie flat. Teardrop - The floor with all doors in place.
Here is the obligatory shot of one wall up. Remember that this is the wall with the wacky profile that I'm going to try to fix (sigh) and I'm still quite a long way off of actually attaching a wall. Teardrop - One wall set in place temporarily.
Started to waterproof the bottom of the floor with asphalt emulsion, aka roofing cement. Wicked stuff this black goo. You might be able to see that I made the two rear-most underfloor boxes an inch shallower than the front four. These ones will be above the axle and the extra inch gives about five inches of clearance. (7/16/2005) Teardrop - Waterproofing the underside of the floor.
Yet more to slow me down--I just purchased this vintage trailer on 7/17/2005. It is a 1960 Siesta and here is it's own page. This one will take less work (I hope) and will be available should we need more room than the tears will provide. 1960 Siesta Travel Trailer.
Oops, ought to do things in their proper order. I had meant to trim the rear angle before I goo'd the underside. Made it all the way back to the 2x4 in question before I remembered. You might notice that the goo looks a lot less shiny today. I trusted the sign on the shelf at Home Depot and while I thought I was getting asphault emulsion roof coating, I actually purchased flashing cement. I used it anyway and am thankful that it dried very quickly. The floor is now right side up and partially screwed to the chassis. (7/17/2005) Teardrop - making the rear cut.
After working on the Siesta for over a month getting ready for the Trailer Trash Bash, as well as picking up this, my third teardrop, (a 1959 homebuilt) I'm finally back to working on the 5x10 tear. Here is the build page for the 1959 Greenshag tear. (9/1/2005) Teardrop - 1959 Homebuilt Teardrop.
I picked up 20 of these foot-long piano hinges from eBay (for $12.91 delivered) to attach the doors that cover the underfloor storage bins. Had to cut one or two tabs off of each hinge and now need to drill and countersink holes for the screws. Each door will take two hinges. Lots of work at the drill press... (9/1/2005) Teardrop - hinges for the underfloor storage.
After beveling the front edge of the floor to match the walls I screwed the floor to the chassis using the red, stronger version of Locktite on each bolt (since I'll never be able to access them again).

As planned I glued a second piece of half-inch plywood to the bottom of each door hoping to un-bow them. It worked relatively well. Two coats of grey deck enamel on the storage boxes and I'm ready to cover the floor.

Most of this Labor Day weekend was spent demolishing the free truck camper to make more room in my yard. (9/4/2005)

Teardrop - underfloor storage areas painted.
The original builder bought a nice sheet of vinyl flooring which I was able to re-use. He had cut it for the galley so I had to match up three different pieces to achieve what you see here. I first placed the storage doors into their openings and shimmed them so they were centered how I wanted. I laid the big piece of vinyl over the whole floor, temporarily stapled the vinyl to the corners of the six doors, then cut the doors out close to the door edges. The pattern on the flooring should match up nicely when I drop the doors back in. I used outdoor carpet adhesive to attach the vinyl and it got everywhere! (9/8/2005) Teardrop - vinyl flooring installed.
One door nearly done! I still have to install the brass finger pull but don't want to disturb the drill press setup I used to drill holes in the half inch aluminum angle trim until I drill the trim for the five other doors. The trim came from Home Depot, the finger pull from D. Lawless Hardware, only $1.78 each. (9/9/2005) Teardrop - One door done.
Woo Hoo! The floor is done! It took over three months with lots of interruptions but I'm pleased with the results. Time for the walls, which I've already started. (9/18/2005) Teardrop - The floor is done.
Unfortunately, I won't be seeing much of the floor until the tear is nearly finished--I've covered it with cardboard to protect it from tool drops and other scuffing behaviors. The cardboard should also protect my knees from the 250 or so screws holding the underfloor storage doors and trim.

This is part of a king-sized mattress box I got for free from a member of the local chapter of Freecycle, an environmentally conscious group of folks trying to keep things out of the landfills by giving them away. I have three more boxes the same size and will be using one or more of them to make patterns of the walls of the other tears I'm working on.

The edges of the vinyl, about an inch or so, were left exposed as these will be covered with the inner insulated portion of the walls. I'll be cutting pieces out of the cardboard and retaping as I add features like the bulkhead and closet.

Teardrop - The floor protected.
And since I'm building the tear completely out of doors, I've added the requisite tarp(s). (9/19/2005) Teardrop - The floor protected against the weather.
Well it's been over a year, the floor is still under a tarp and it has been snowing like all get out. Hoping the tarp is keeping my floor dry! (12/29/2006) Teardrop - The floor still under a tarp under the snow.
Well almost two years later my floor didn't fair so well under the tarp. In summer of 2008 I uncovered the floor and inspected the damage. Rusted hinges and screws, water in my underfloor compartments, and the vinyl is coming up. I dried, repainted the compartments, removed, derusted, and painted the hinges, replaced all screws with stainless steel ones, and stapled the edges of the vinyl down (and painted over to keep the staples from rusting). The floor is once again in good shape waiting for me to get back to work on the rest. (11/29/2008) Teardrop - The floor refurbished after a long delay.

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